Places in Çeşme

A working 9.5-dönüm farm puts its own tomatoes, peppers and preserves on a thirty-three-plate table overlooking a waterfall

Waterfront boutique rooms with a private slip of beach

A 322-year-old Hellenistic stone house steps from the ruins

A year-round roaster that treats single origins as the whole point

A corner garden of lemon trees where the serpme stays classic and the pişi keeps coming, no bazaar-street theatre attached

The Sezginer family puts up a wholly organic morning under their own vines, pouring grape juice pressed from grapes you can reach up and pick

Stone terrace at the gate of Erythrai antique city, the Ildırı sunset bench with takımadalar in frame

The 1994 Saturday market on Tokoğlu's edge, the peninsula's slow-food anchor and the village's true social square

The Demirel family's handmade Alaçatı patisserie, a quiet bakery counter the village uses for birthdays it actually means

A 130-year stone-house garden in Hacımemiş where the Aegean serpme is taken seriously and the bazlama still comes off the saç

The Akbulut family's 2014 Alaçatı gelato counter, a Financial Times top-25 boutique, a hundred-and-fifty rotating flavours, made on site every morning

Founded 1953 by the Kadagan brothers from Yugoslavia, the peninsula's archetype of stew-pot Anatolian home cooking, still in family hands

The peninsula's serious specialty coffee bar, Guatemala, Colombia, Kenya, Ethiopia on rotation, a Hacımemiş regulars' room

Mordoğan iskele room facing the sea, the working-village fish counter that yacht trade hasn't reached

Nihal Hanım's garden in Saip village, forty house jams, mountain-foraged herbs, breakfast cooked by the village women

A twelve-year Alaçatı kahvaltı institution that quietly moved into the village square, herbed eggs, proper jams, no theatrics