Kanaat Lokantası
Üsküdar
A family Üsküdar esnaf lokanta since 1933, Ottoman home cooking read off the steam table
Chef Mari Esgici's tiny Kurtuluş room and back garden, slow-cooked ribs the whole point
Marinee is chef Mari Esgici's small Kurtuluş room with a back garden, built around one idea done well: kaburga, beef ribs slow-cooked for the better part of a day until they fall from the bone. It is owner-run and unpolished, a neighbourhood table with an Armenian and Diyarbakır hand, the sort of place regulars book and newcomers stumble onto.
Come for the kaburga; the ribs are the reason and they run out. Ask for the back garden in warm months.
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