Places in Lisbon

1905 Chiado coffeehouse, Pessoa's old terrace

Art Deco Rossio café with a literary past since 1929

Marble-and-wood petiscos between tasca and fine dining

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

1947 beer-hall marisqueira for shellfish straight from the tank

Specialty coffee and real-food brunch in a former pharmacy

Lisbon's oldest pastry house, family-run since 1829

Plant-forward brunch and specialty coffee in Anjos

Wood-panelled seafood institution running since 1936

Stone-milled Portuguese-grain bread from Alcantara

Grand brasserie of altitude inside a centenary Avenida theatre

The world's oldest operating bookshop, on Rua Garrett since 1773

Naturally-leavened pizza, Basque cheesecake and natural wine

The pastel de nata, made to order behind glass

The cult pastel de nata, freshly gonged, minus the Belém queue

1943 pastelaria, repeat 'best pastel de nata' winner

Austrian-owned all-day cafe with cake, books and worn sofas

The original Cais do Sodre conservas bar

Henrique Sa Pessoa's tapas-and-petiscos vermouth bar

Lisbon's flagship urban-contemporary art platform

Pioneering Lisbon roaster on a 5kg Probatone

Slow-fermented artisan bakery from Vitor Sobral & Mário Rolando