La Closerie des Lilas
Saint-Germain & Saint-Sulpice
Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.
Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.
Lipp opened in 1880 and has been the political-literary brasserie of the Left Bank ever since, Mitterrand ate here twice a week, the Goncourt jury have used the upstairs, and the dining-room hierarchy (ground floor good, upstairs a relegation) is enforced by waiters who have worked here for decades and wear numbered pins by seniority. The 1926 dining room is a registered historic monument: hand-painted tile murals by Léon Fargue, mirror columns, brass coat racks. Order what they have made for a hundred years, choucroute garnie, sole meunière, mille-feuille, not the day's specials. No reservations after 8pm; jacket helps. Run by the Bertrand family since 1990.
Cult flag, 1880 institution, listed Art Nouveau dining room (1926), historic Académiciens/political canteen.
At a Glance
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Street Scene, Garden View
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