Semilla

Semilla opened in 2012 on rue de Seine, between the galleries of the 6e and the Pont Neuf, and has the relaxed seriousness that Le Fooding describes as the rive-gauche bistronomy crowd. Eric Trochon, Meilleur Ouvrier de France, runs an open kitchen that puts out cleanly modern small plates: sea-bream ceviche with leche de tigre and quince; roast cod with Granville cockles and Roscoff onion; pigeon, beetroot, blackcurrant. Concrete-and-steel room, pale wood, no tablecloths. In the Michelin Guide selection. Reservations open three weeks ahead and prime Friday-Saturday tables go in the first day.