Places in Çeşme

The world's largest olive oil museum, a Klazomenai mill replica, a working modern press, a restaurant and a shop, seventeen kilometres from Alaçatı

An Italian gelataio who fell for the Aegean and now churns the peninsula's most honest gelato off a Hacimemis corner

Waterfront boutique rooms with a private slip of beach

A small, coffee-only room that fresh-roasts and means it

A 322-year-old Hellenistic stone house steps from the ruins

Alaçatı's first gallery, where the village's painters and ceramicists have shown since 2005

A working ceramic atelier on Paşadayı square, pots thrown on-site and taught hands-on

A family-run raki-and-fish meyhane at the bazaar mouth where you bring your own bottle

Diyarbakır charcoal craft married to the Aegean, with daily homemade meze from the owner's wife

Stone terrace at the gate of Erythrai antique city, the Ildırı sunset bench with takımadalar in frame

The Demirel family's handmade Alaçatı patisserie, a quiet bakery counter the village uses for birthdays it actually means

A small Şifne fish house on the village side, for when even Ferdi Baba feels too crowded

The Akbulut family's 2014 Alaçatı gelato counter, a Financial Times top-25 boutique, a hundred-and-fifty rotating flavours, made on site every morning

Founded 1953 by the Kadagan brothers from Yugoslavia, the peninsula's archetype of stew-pot Anatolian home cooking, still in family hands

Tomris Maravent's 2004 corner café, the steady Alaçatı pulse, eight tables that grew into the village living room

The peninsula's serious specialty coffee bar, Guatemala, Colombia, Kenya, Ethiopia on rotation, a Hacımemiş regulars' room

Mordoğan iskele room facing the sea, the working-village fish counter that yacht trade hasn't reached