Intimate in Paris

Forty-seat 7e bistro behind Musée d'Orsay, chef Patrick Plais's blanquette, lentil salad, chocolate mousse in a fruit-bowl.

Southwest French institution since 1894, Art-Nouveau dining room beside the Halles épicerie.

Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.

Italian bistrattoria in the 19th-century Passage des Panoramas, Simone Tondo's Michelin-starred room

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes