Cookoovaya

Cookoovaya, 'cookery owl', opened in 2014 with five chefs co-running the kitchen: Pericles Koskinas, Dimitris Skarmoutsos, Pavlos Kyriakis, Manolis Papoutsakis, and Nikos Thomas. The model is unusual and the result has held: a Michelin Bib Gourmand, a long press track record, and the most-booked weekday table in Athens for the contemporary-Greek register. The dining room is open kitchen, polished concrete, modern-Mediterranean grammar without the fussy fine-dining ceiling. Order the lamb belly, the wild-greens pita, the seasonal raw fish course. Cookoovaya is what the chapter recommends when the brief is 'serious modern-Greek without a Michelin tasting menu commitment'.