Editorial
In-depth guides, local perspectives, and editorial stories on Emilia-Romagna's food, culture, and neighborhoods.
Forget the carbonara-and-spritz canteens off Piazza Maggiore. The real Bologna lives wherever a sfoglina is still bent over a wooden board at eight in the morning, rolling egg dough thin enough to read a newspaper through.
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Parmigiano, traditional balsamic, culatello di Zibello — Emilia's holy trinity isn't made in a factory, it's made in fog and cellars and attics. The most rewarding meals in the region are the ones you drive an hour out of the city to reach.
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Massimo Bottura turned a sleepy balsamic town into a global pilgrimage. The marvel of Modena is that it absorbed the fame without losing its four-table hosterie and its lunch-counter trattorie — the avant-garde and the ancient share the same arcades.
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Rimini means sunbeds and nightclubs to most of Italy. But the Romagna coast is also one of the country's great seafood larders — fried moleche, grilled Adriatic catch, and piadina hot off the testo — if you know to look past the umbrellas.
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Bologna drinks the way it eats — seriously, sociably, and without pretension. From a wine osteria that has poured since 1465 to a tiki bar ranked among the world's best, the evening here runs from medieval to mixological in a few hundred metres.
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In Emilia, tortellini in brodo is not a starter — it is a doctrine, eaten at Christmas, defended in arguments, and best understood in the dead of winter. The broth must be capon, the tortellini must be tiny, and the place must be old.
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