Kemeraltı
İzmir's centuries-old working bazaar, best explored on foot for esnaf lokantas and courtyard coffee.
Kemeraltı is the old covered market that has been İzmir's commercial spine for centuries, a maze of arcades, hans and narrow lanes that still functions as a working bazaar rather than a museum. You come here to eat: searing-fast esnaf lokantas, boyoz and gevrek for breakfast, şambali and Turkish coffee in the historic Kızlarağası Han, and counters of pickles, dried fruit and spice. It rewards wandering with no plan, ducking into a courtyard café when the lanes get hot. The energy is everyday and tradesmanlike, and the food is honest and cheap.
Highlights
Restaurant
5 places
Bib Gourmand Bosnian börek inside a 17th-century Kemeraltı han
Cafe
3 places
Hand-pounded dibek Turkish coffee, three generations deep
Sand-brewed Turkish coffee inside the 1740s caravanserai