Campo de Ourique

Campo de Ourique is the neighbourhood Lisboners name when asked where they would actually like to live, a calm grid of low buildings, butchers, bakeries and good local restaurants up on the plateau. It has a proper covered market that has been smartened up without losing its everyday role, and streets where you still recognise the same faces. Visitors are few, which is the point; the pleasures are domestic rather than spectacular. Come for an unhurried lunch and a sense of how the city lives away from the river.