The French House
Soho
Dean Street's no-music, no-mobiles holdout, the Soho the audience first read about in the 80s
Greek Street's 1871 patisserie, London's oldest French pastry shop, still hand-laminated upstairs
Opened in 1871 by Communard refugees and run since 1988 by Michele Wade and her sister Tania, Maison Bertaux is the oldest French patisserie in London and one of the last in central Soho where the croissants, mille-feuilles and seasonal fruit tarts are still laminated by hand on the floor above. The two small rooms, chipped tiles, mismatched chairs, framed flyers from a half-century of Soho theatre, function as the unaccompanied chapter of London Soho the audience has read about and rarely actually sits in. Cash and card both accepted now; the tea is properly poured.
Walk-in only, no bookings. The mille-feuille and the strawberry tart in season are the through-line. Upstairs room hosts rotating art shows curated by Michele Wade, Pierre et Gilles, Noel Fielding alumni. Two minutes from Quo Vadis on the same block.
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Street Scene, London Skyline
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