Frenchie Bar à Vins
Sentier & Bourse
The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group, natural wine and small plates
Half-punk, half-precise, the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.
The bistro that opened in 2011 in a former passage and quietly set the template for the next decade of natural-wine small-plates rooms across Paris. Au Passage is still itself: chalkboard, a long bar, mismatched tables, a kitchen that runs whatever the morning's market gave it, and a wine list dominated by minimum-intervention bottles at fair prices. Chef Minwoo Lee currently runs the kitchen. It hits buzzy on a Friday and almost convivial mid-week. There's now a sister address, Au Petit Passage, 8 rue de la Main d'Or, running the same playbook at a smaller scale.
Order three plates and a bottle, then another. Don't try to plan it.
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