Le Servan
Bastille, Charonne & Oberkampf
The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.
Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking, opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.
A classified Belle Époque interior, tiled clowns on the walls, a ceiling rosette of acrobats, repurposed in 2014 into one of the 11e's most photogenic neo-bistros. Sota Atsumi (ex-Vivant Table) set the original menu and the kitchen has stayed in that idiom: short, seasonal, more starters than mains, treated with restraint. The wine list is a serious natural cellar. It draws a fashion-and-design crowd in the evenings without becoming a scene about itself, which is harder than it sounds. The room is small. Book two weeks ahead.
The interior is listed; the kitchen is the size of a closet. Order more starters than mains.
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