Le 6 Paul Bert

Six doors down from the original Bistrot Paul Bert, Le 6 was reset around chef Pauline Séné after a quiet renovation. The room kept its zinc bar and old café tables; the menu went modern and slightly more daring than its sibling, smoked tarama and trout roe with focaccia and wakame, monkfish with celeriac and beurre blanc cut by blackberry nori. It books out earlier than the original because it seats fewer, and it sits in the Michelin Guide on its own merits, not as a satellite. Wine list overlaps with the parent address.