Venues similar to Le Petit Cambodge

Counter-seat Korean, chef Kim Kwang-Loc's mandu and tartares, fashion-week regulars on stools.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group, natural wine and small plates

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie, Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque, the SoPi room that never feels off.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot, the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy, the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.