Antica Gallura
Countryside Gallurese tradition built around the porceddu
Inland granite-country Gallura, where stazzo farmsteads and Vermentino define the coast's source kitchen.
Arzachena is the granite-country town that administers the Costa Smeralda from a few kilometres inland — the everyday Gallura behind the glossy coast, surrounded by prehistoric tombe dei giganti and the dry-stone shepherds' farmsteads called stazzi. Its tables are where the region's terra cooking is taken seriously: zuppa gallurese, suckling pig turned on the spit, hand-rolled pastas and the local sheep's and goat's cheeses, paired with Vermentino di Gallura, the island's great white. Restaurants range from longstanding institutions in town to converted stazzi in the surrounding hills. This is the kitchen the coast borrows from — the source rather than the showcase.
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