Nea Folia
Ano Poli (lower edge)
Grandma's kitchen meets deli on the slope below the old town
Toumba's no-frills bench for offal, lamb and a serious wine list
Deep in the residential blocks of Kato Toumba, Palia Athina is the old-school taverna locals send you to for the dishes the center has forgotten: slow-cooked gardoumba, herb-roasted lamb and charcoal pork souvlaki. The room is plain and the crowd local, but the cellar is one of the city's deepest in Greek labels. It runs full most nights on reputation alone.
Worth the ride out from the center; order the gardoumba and ask for a wine recommendation, the Greek list is unusually serious. Book ahead.
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Discover other places in the neighborhood
Ano Poli (lower edge)
Grandma's kitchen meets deli on the slope below the old town
Kalamaria (Karabournaki)
Constantinopolitan home cooking carried west by the refugees
Center (Platia Fanarioton)
Since 1977, the city's benchmark soutzoukakia and hand-cut gyro
Ano Poli (Tsinari)
The Ottoman-era corner ouzeri that survived the city itself
Center (Modiano / Louloudadika)
An antique-feeling ouzeri tucked inside the market arcade
Center (near Roman Agora)
The 1952 patsas institution that defends tripe as heritage