Clamato

Bertrand Grebaut's seafood counterpart to Septime, three doors down on rue de Charonne. No reservations, no compromises: shoulder-to-shoulder bench seating, a chalkboard menu that shifts by the day's deliveries from French ports, Maldon oysters, raw fish dressed in fragrant herbs, the most precise crudo in the 11e. The wine list mirrors Septime's natural-leaning convictions, and the energy is loose where the parent restaurant is cerebral. Arrive at opening or expect to queue, especially on weekends. The food costs less than you'd expect for the calibre, which is part of why the city's chefs keep showing up on their nights off.