Kalamaria

South-east along the coast from the centre, Kalamaria is Thessaloniki's own seaside quarter — a settled, residential district built largely by Asia Minor refugees, with its own marina, its own long waterfront, and a fish-eating culture that locals will argue beats the city centre's. The tables here are unhurried and family-run, the seafood straight off the boats, the ouzo cold and the tablecloths paper. It feels like a town beside the city rather than part of it, which is exactly why people drive out for a long Sunday lunch by the water. Refugee-Pontic and island flavours run through the kitchens.