Bağarası

Bağarası has worked the same Bitez orchard for over two decades under Ümmühan Girgin, and the format has not been improved upon: a meze counter at the door that rotates with the week, a courtyard set among mandarin and citrus trees, the day's fish on the coals at the back. The signature, flagged by the Michelin inspectors specifically, is a deep-fried filo manti with garlic yoghurt and an oregano-mint ragout, followed by an artichoke confit with milk ice cream that has its own following. The kitchen reads as authentic because it is.