Places in Istanbul

Bosphorus-view ocakbasi: organic Kars breakfast mornings, charcoal-grilled evenings

Nostalgic meyhane in Bostancı with honest mezes and late-night raki culture

Chef Mari Esgici's tiny Kurtuluş room and back garden, slow-cooked ribs the whole point

50 varieties of mezze in a 120-year-old building facing Sureyya Opera

Three sisters' intimate Italian with 72-hour fermented Roman pizza

Three-bridge Bosphorus panorama from Fethi Pasa Korusu hilltop garden

Poetry-inspired meyhane in a century-old garden

Southern Italian flavors that put Moda on the gastronomy map

Creative sushi and ramen on the Asian side

Modern Neapolitan with imported San Marzano tomatoes

4th-generation Neapolitan pizza with 24-hour leavened dough

Proper Napoli-style with San Marzano, fermented dough, and standout tiramisu

Three-chef collaboration: egg hummus to gochujang bucatini, all day

Newer Moda ocakbasi with generous smoky portions

Cocktails in a stone-walled historic space until 2:30AM

Dead-end alley meyhane with vinyl records and cinema nostalgia

Istanbul's first Tokyo-style Neapolitan pizza on a five-stool counter

Expert Anatolian grill on Fener Kalamış Caddesi