The Quality Chop House
Farringdon
Farringdon Road's Grade II 1869 working-class chop house, Shaun Searley's revival of the listed-bench institution.
Sam and Sam Clark's Exmouth Market Moorish room, the 1997 landmark that taught London Spanish-and-North-African cooking.
Sam and Sam Clark opened Moro on Exmouth Market in 1997 and effectively introduced London to the Moorish-Andalusian-North-African register that the Clarks had researched on a year-long Mediterranean caravan. Twenty-eight years on, the room runs largely unchanged: an open kitchen, wood-fired oven and charcoal grill at the back, white walls, the Moro Cookbook recipes that built a generation of British home cooks. The cooking is direct, wood-roast lamb, charcoal-grilled sea bream, harira soup, yoghurt cake, and the wine list one of London's most considered Spanish lists. The chapter's audience comes here for the cooking, not the scene; that has not changed since 1997.
Book the bar counter facing the open kitchen rather than the dining-room tables, the kitchen view is the point. Lunch is the easier reservation; weekday evenings book three weeks ahead. The wood-roast lamb and the yoghurt cake are the through-line orders. Sister room Morito is two doors down for tapas-only service.
At a Glance
View Type
Historic Monuments, London Skyline
View Quality
Good
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