Restaurant in Paris

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie, Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière, Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution, bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy, the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.