Moro
Clerkenwell
Sam and Sam Clark's Exmouth Market Moorish room, the 1997 landmark that taught London Spanish-and-North-African cooking.
Fergus Henderson's nose-to-tail manifesto since 1994, the white-walled Smithfield room that wrote modern British cooking.
Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver opened St JOHN on St John Street in 1994 in a former Georgian smokehouse opposite Smithfield meat market, and the room effectively wrote the playbook for modern British cooking: nose-to-tail, ingredient-named-on-the-plate, white walls, no decoration, bone marrow on toast as the manifesto dish. Three decades on the kitchen still runs Henderson's vocabulary daily, roast bone marrow with parsley salad, devilled kidneys, eccles cake with Lancashire, and the room has held its first Michelin star continuously since 2009. The bakery downstairs sells the loaves and madeleines that built half of London's chef-restaurant bread programmes.
Book the upstairs dining room rather than the bar; lunch is the easier reservation and the kitchen runs the same menu. Bone marrow with parsley salad, the eccles cake and Lancashire, and the day's roast are the canonical orders. The bakery hatch downstairs sells loaves until they go (mornings); the doughnuts are the queue's reason at 11am.
At a Glance
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Historic Monuments, London Skyline
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Good
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