Le Cure / Campo di Marte

Beyond the ring road to the north-east, Le Cure and Campo di Marte are residential Florence at its most unguarded, marked by Pier Luigi Nervi's pioneering Stadio Artemio Franchi and streets where you will hear no English at all. Da Burde, an institution out on Via Pistoiese's side of the city, still serves Friday baccalà to the same families it has fed for decades, and the neighbourhood bistros cook without an eye on visitors. This is the deep-local extension for the genuinely curious.