Restaurant H

Hubert Duchenne, Normandy-born, Akrame and Piège-trained, runs a 20-seat room near Bastille where the entire dining experience is a single set tasting menu. Razor clams with parsley, pollack with amaranth, charred Jersey beef with charcoal-tinged carrot: each plate balances roast and acid with the clarity of a chef who knows exactly what he's serving. Recognised by Gault & Millau as a young talent before earning his Michelin star, Duchenne has settled into a register that's confident rather than showy. For visitors who want a serious chef's-counter experience in the Marais without the corporate gloss of larger Michelin tables, H is the move.