Jin

A ten-seat counter wedged behind a discreet wooden door near rue Saint-Honoré. Chef Satoshi Kobayashi runs an omakase-only menu, no à la carte, no negotiation, pulling matured tuna belly, Brittany line-caught seabass and Spanish red shrimp through a Japan-spec rice the temperature of body heat. The wine list runs deep into Burgundy and grand-cru sake, the chopsticks are rosewood, the lighting low enough that you focus on what's in front of you and nothing else. One Michelin star, currently held. The kind of room where your reservation arrives stamped with arrival instructions: don't wear perfume, don't bring oversize bags, don't arrive late. Book three weeks ahead.