Bar in Çeşme

A neon-lit courtyard bar that runs on regulars, not reservations for show

Championship coffee by day, an award-winning bar by night, on the same counter

Where the night goes when the dinner crowd has gone home

An owner-poured bar where the cocktail list is rewritten, not reprinted

Organic Grenache rosé and Tempranillo grown six kilometres of stone-terraced slope above the village, tasted facing Chios

Stone-walled Hacımemiş room where wine, jazz and Aegean cooking share the same evening, Ozan Musluoğlu directs the music

Small candlelit cocktail room off 2000. Sokak, handcrafted drinks, low volume, the closest the village gets to a proper speakeasy

The Hacımemiş garden-cocktail format done at scale, kitchen runs all day, bar runs late, 150 covers under the trees

Thirty-seven local boutique bottles in the village's hundred-year priest's house, fireplace, three rooms upstairs, the bar that built the wine reputation