Places in Canal Saint-Martin

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

1906 Art Nouveau bouillon, Mucha-style nymphs, listed monument, Édith Piaf's table.

Female-led cocktail bar with bi-fold windows on the Belleville-Canal axis, zero pretension, real depth.

Christophe Vasseur's 1875-listed bakery on rue Yves Toudic, pain des amis, escargots, no shortcuts.

Naturophile cave-à-manger by the canal, visiting chefs, no reservations, minimum-intervention list.

Mexican street-food institution on rue Eugène Varlin, Canal Saint-Martin's handmade-tortilla bench since 2011.

The Australian-style breakfast counter that taught Paris to queue for pancakes, and serve them well.

République speakeasy hidden behind a working laundromat, push the right washing-machine door, climb the staircase.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution, bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

French-spirits-only cocktail bar in a graffiti-clad doorway, World's 50 Best Bars regular.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution, 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Mickaël Benichou's 2013 patisserie-boulangerie, painted-ceiling 19th-century shop, marble counter heaped with bread

Yann Couvreur's first patisserie since May 2016, the original room with the fox-mark logo