Places in Paris

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot, the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie, Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas, a Paris postcard.

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière, Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Vegan French on rue Saint-Paul, twenty-plus years reinterpreting French classics without animal product.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony, zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

French-spirits-only cocktail bar in a graffiti-clad doorway, World's 50 Best Bars regular.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution, 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro, checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.

Counter-seat Korean, chef Kim Kwang-Loc's mandu and tartares, fashion-week regulars on stools.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy, the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.

The wine bar inside the Septime universe, 90 natural references, 30 standing seats, no booking.