Smokestak
Shoreditch
David Carter's wood-and-oak smokehouse, the brisket Sunday lunch the chapter actually returns to
A 40-cover kitchen-and-natural-wine warehouse under the Bermondsey arches, chef Steve Williams
40 Maltby Street operates inside the Gergovie Wines warehouse on a Bermondsey railway arch, by day a wine cellar, by service a 40-seat counter-and-table room serving chef Steve Williams' short, daily-changing British-leaning menu. No reservations except for groups of six, which is part of the discipline. The wine list is the Gergovie low-intervention catalogue at retail-plus-corkage. James Lowe, Brett Graham and Florence Knight have all named it on their personal London top-five. The chapter's natural-wine reference for the South Bank.
Walk-in only on weekdays, virtual queue on Saturdays when the Maltby Street Market doubles the foot traffic. The crowd pairs it with the Saturday market itself for the canonical South-Bank afternoon. Ask for whatever Steve has just opened, staff are happy to pour blind.
At a Glance
View Type
Thames River, London Skyline
View Quality
Exceptional
Sunset
**** (4/5)
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