40 Maltby Street
Bermondsey
A 40-cover kitchen-and-natural-wine warehouse under the Bermondsey arches, chef Steve Williams
David Carter's wood-and-oak smokehouse, the brisket Sunday lunch the chapter actually returns to
Smokestak began as a market stall and graduated to a Sclater Street arch off Brick Lane in 2016, chef David Carter, Barbados-born and Roka-trained, smoking brisket twelve to fifteen hours over English oak. The pre-order whole brisket is the table order; the brioche-bun version with pickled red chilli is the casual one. Same group as Manteca (Shoreditch's Italian arch). The casual-but-serious slot the audience uses when Brat is full and the appetite is barbecue.
Pre-order the whole brisket when you book, it is a different dish from the bun and only released as a pre-order. The basement holds the bigger tables; the ground floor is louder. Sunday early evening is the quietest slot.
At a Glance
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London Skyline, Street Scene
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