Kiln
Soho
Ben Chapman's Brewer Street counter, Thai grill cooking over wood and clay, no reservations, the Bib Gourmand argument
Pistachio-green Soho deli since 1944, pasta as Italian commute
The pistachio-green storefront on Brewer Street has been selling fresh pasta, cured meats and Italian groceries since 1944, when Lina Filippi opened a counter for Soho's Italian community. The deli is still the soul of the operation, order a panino, watch the women behind the glass roll tortellini, but a small dining room behind it serves what the deli sells, plated. The same family group has expanded to King's Cross, Marylebone and Greek Street, but Brewer Street is the original and the one to choose. The tagliarini with crab and Amalfi lemon is the tell, Italian restraint, no shortcuts, priced for daily use.
The deli does not take reservations, restaurant downstairs does. Order by glass case in the morning, sit-down in the evening. The grocery side is genuinely useful, you can leave with a pound of fresh tagliatelle and a wedge of Parmigiano.
At a Glance
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Street Scene, London Skyline
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