Deià

Deià clings to a fold of the Tramuntana between the mountains and the sea, a cluster of ochre stone houses below a hilltop church that has drawn writers, painters and musicians since Robert Graves settled here. It is small, steep and self-consciously beautiful, terraced olive groves dropping toward a tiny cove and a light that has always done half the work. Dining is concentrated in a few serious hotel and village kitchens that cook to the surroundings — Mediterranean, ingredient-driven, often eaten on a terrace with the valley falling away below. You eat here for the setting as much as the plate, and the two are hard to separate.