Cafe Frischhut, Schmalznudel

Locals don't call it Cafe Frischhut. They call it Schmalznudel, after the lard-fried yeast pastry the Frischhut family has been turning out at Prälat-Zistl-Strasse since 1973, crisp shell, pillow centre, a heavy dust of icing sugar. There are also Krapfen at carnival, Striezel year-round, drip coffee in old-German-script porcelain, and a few rustic wooden tables that fill before the morning queue at Viktualienmarkt next door. Cash only. Closed Sundays. The schmalznudel must be eaten within twenty minutes of frying, sit, don't take away.