Sultan Backparadies

Goethestraße runs through what the locals call 'Klein Istanbul', the Bahnhofsviertel-Westend seam where the Turkish diaspora actually does its weekly shop. Sultan Backparadies is the bakery the diaspora actually queues at: hand-rolled pide on the wood-fired stone, simit braided in the back, baklava cut to order, börek that wasn't sitting under a heat lamp. Counter service, no English menu, exact change appreciated. The Istanbul-cosmopolitan test it passes is the simplest one, does the dough taste like dough rather than supermarket flour, and yes.