Olbia

Olbia is Gallura's working gateway — the airport, the ferry port, the place most of the coast's summer crowds pass through without stopping. That role hides a genuine city with Roman and Phoenician roots and, on its lagoon, one of Italy's most important mussel and clam farms, the muggini and arselle finding their way straight onto local tables. The dining is more honest and less performed than the resorts up the coast: trattorie and a clutch of ambitious bistros cooking Gallura granite-country fare — soup, suckling pig, sheep's cheeses — alongside the lagoon's shellfish. It rewards the traveller who lingers a night rather than racing to Porto Cervo.