Lemar

Lemar has been cooking proper Afghan home food in Munich since 2001, for years the Innenstadt and Isartor branches kept it accessible across the city, but the Schwabing room on Viktor-Scheffel-Straße is now the flagship and the only one with regular hours. Seventy seats, pastel walls hung with mosaic-inlaid tables, the smell of cardamom and cinnamon and fresh coriander as soon as you walk in. The kitchen specialises in lamb, fresh, never frozen, hand-spiced rather than curry-pasted, alongside the dish you actually come for: Borani Kado, sweet pumpkin braised with chilli and honey, served with garlic yogurt and a flatbread. There is no other Afghan kitchen in Munich operating at this register; everything else is takeaway.