Ristorante Il Portolano

Right on the Porto San Paolo waterfront, looking straight across to the great limestone wall of Tavolara, Il Portolano has been run for more than fifteen years by the Sardinian-Swiss couple Roberto and Claudia. Young chef Tony Liso lifts the day's catch with a modern hand — red tuna tartare with cucumber and raspberry, the fish grilled, baked or in salt crust. A terrace table at sunset is the reason to book.