seaside, soulful, raw-fish savvy, dual-natured

Rimini

Fellini's seaside city where boat-fresh Adriatic seafood and Romagna piadina hide behind the beach-club neon.

Strip away the neon beach clubs Rimini is famous for and you find Fellini's home town, a place with serious old bones and a genuine fishing culture underneath the parasols. The eating splits in two: the rough-and-ready piadina kiosks and beach-shack fritto misto on one side, and on the other a quietly ambitious table that has learned to plate the Adriatic with restraint. Trattoria da Lucio is the local touchstone for raw and barely-cooked seafood — scampi, mazzancolle, whatever is sweetest that day — served with the confidence of a kitchen that buys from the boats. Inland the cooking turns to piadina, cappelletti in brodo and Sangiovese, the Romagna heart that the summer crowds never quite see.

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Boat-fresh raw and lightly cooked seafood at Trattoria da Lucio Piadina and cappelletti in brodo, the Romagna inland staples Adriatic fritto misto from beach kiosks to ambitious dining rooms Sangiovese di Romagna poured with the seafood A real fishing-and-Fellini soul beneath the resort surface

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