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The quinto-quarto cathedral carved into Monte Testaccio

Textbook cucina romana cut into the amphora hill

Cacio e pepe as liturgy since 1911

1936 osteria famed for tableside cacio e pepe

Three-decade neighbourhood trattoria with day-specific menus

The benchmark thin-crust Roman pizza of Testaccio

The original home of Rome's pizza-pocket of cucina romana

Sergio Esposito's legendary Roman-classic panini in the market

Checked-cloth family trattoria of pure Roman recipes

Testaccio's neighbourhood pastry bar since 1971

Restored tram kiosk for specialty coffee and dusk aperitivo

One-star winter-garden cooking on the Aventino edge

Davide Puleio's intimate one-star in residential Prati

Arcangelo Dandini's elevated Roman bistrot

Rome's most serious haute Japanese, off Piazza Cavour

Gabriele Bonci's landmark pizza al taglio

All-day Prati canteen, wine bar and gastroteca

Historic Prati espresso bar famed for the chocolate-cup coffee

Manuele Colonna's craft-beer temple with Trapizzino

Artisanal, additive-free gelato in Prati

Pasolini's old haunt, Pigneto's all-day hub

Speakeasy behind a Pigneto sandwich shop

Chic post-industrial kitchen with a creative seasonal menu

Belle-Epoque enoteca and all-day wine room since 2011

Pigneto's deep-rotation craft beer bar and bottle shop

Pigneto's specialty-coffee bar and cultural corner

Barreca and Baccanelli's cult micro-restaurant of new-wave cucina romana

Catalani family taberna reviving ancient Roman recipes in old Trastevere

Cristina Bowerman's Michelin-starred creative kitchen in a Trastevere backstreet

Antonio Ziantoni's measured, classically-grounded one-star tucked behind Trastevere